Teenage Suicide

Fun Fact No. 1a: Gut while you wait. Depending on how you're planning to cook your fish or turtle or caiman or whatever, they'll clean it and gut it. If you're making stew, it's cleaned one way. If you're frying it, it's cleaned another way. Etc.

Well, folks, I got into Iquitos last night at 10pm. I was supposed to get in at 7:25pm, but there was some crazy thunderstorm that dropped 12 inches/hour and so the flight was a bit delayed. I hung out with/took care of a little old lady named Laura who has Alzheimer's, most likely early stages. It was a bit weird but she was sweet so it didn't matter. I can't believe someone let her fly by herself - not only is she just OLD and can't walk very well, but we kind of adopted each other. Here's a brief transcription (and translation) of our nearly three hour conversation:

L: Hello, miss. What's your name?

K: My name is Kathryn, Laura.

L: Where are you from? I live on Jose Calvo Street, near Moore Avenue. I'm kind of forgetful (olvidona).

K: I'm from the US. And I live in Morona Cocha when I'm in Iquitos.

L: Morona? That is a lovely lagoon. What's your name?

K: My name is Kathryn.

L: Where are you from? I live on Jose Calvo Street, near Moore. I'm kind of forgetful.

And so forth. It made me a little sad for her, and it was tough to stay patient. But she was very sweet, and would occasionally offer or ask for other kinds of information. Like sometimes she sells papayas in the market in Iquitos. And that her husband died a few years ago and she likes being a single gal again. And that her son was going to pick her up from the airport. And pick her up he did, although he looked about her same age.

And so I got in, grabbed a mototaxi to my family's house in Morona, and surprised Mario Sr., the dad of the family. He had no idea I was coming, and we had a great time just chatting and hugging. We have a really great relationship, and it was great to just be with him with nobody else around. Eventually Mario Jr. and his girlfriend Veronica came in to say hi, but by then I was beat and hit the sack.

Today I went to market with Veronica Meder, Mario's younger sister, and her boyfriend Jean Carlos. I forgot about the hustle and bustle of this market, and I often wonder: how is it that with approximately 1,000 stands selling the same fish / vegetables / toothbrushes / alligator or whatever that people can end up feeding their families? And how is it that the competition works? I'm learning quite a bit about capitalism as a new idea / ideology / practice here in Iquitos, but some days it hits me more than others. These people wouldn't stand a chance in Austin. It's pretty amazing. I had ponche, egg whites whipped with vanilla and a little cream and topped off with boiling masaato, fermented yuca beer. It's so SO filling (and rather sinful) but delicious.

And now to the slightly depressing observation of the day: death is everywhere and no one's sensitive to it. I think it's cultural, probably because they're so darned used to it, but I still can't get used to it. Everyone knows that I left my motorcycle with my friend Victor who killed himself in October. And this is their response / interaction / commentary to me:

a. Dude, I heard that guy you gave your moto to offed himself. I think he was gay.
b. So did you ever find out why Victor killed himself? Did he leave a note?
c. Did you know that Victor hung himself? Weird, huh.
d. People are always killing themselves these days. So what are you going to do with the moto?

Just not exactly what I would say (or have ever said) about someone's recently deceased friend. Tact and sensitivity are of the utmost importance in the US about these things, and these are not things you just say. But I guess in some ways it's OK; death is normal, a part of life, and it happens all the time. Suicides are far too common and no one can be in the head of the person who's committed suicide, so who are we to judge? I'm definitely thinking too much because I'm reading Murakami, and he definitely messes with your head. Regardless, it's kind of scary to figure out how I should react to these comments. So strange. And I haven't been able to track down Victor's mom and sister yet, so it makes it even more strange.

Other than that bit of weirdness, I still feel good about being here. I feel refreshed and ready to conquer my challenges. I go for my first run in Peru tomorrow, and I'm excited about it. I see Monica tonight (can't WAIT!) and I saw Cesar and Graciela yesterday in Lima. I had fun with Lissette's family and now I'll have fun with my Iquitos family. I'll upload some pictures soon! In the meantime, see you soon.

Oh, and I'll end every post with a food journal so you can see what I eat!
Today:
breakfast - fried chicken, bread, watered down coffee out of the can
lunch - majas soup (jungle rat); duck and yellow rice (usually at lunch there is entrada, or the first course, and then segunda, the main course)
dinner - hasn't happened yet, but I'll order ravioli from the pizza joint Monica and I are going to tonight.